The river birds and sunlight woke us early this morning. There was a group of pigeons inspecting our campsite closely on foot and a huge variety of bird calls.

After finding out the hard way that one of the seals on our gas stove connector hose had perished ( leaking gas and half cooked dinner) last night we had finished cooking with the back up stove.

We wanted to find a fix for this and Moree offered cheaper fuel and also an excellent camping store ( Hardmans) who helped us to find and replace the seal and filled our gas for us. We could have spent the rest of the morning checking out their camping gear, but opted for a park beside the Mehi river and cup of tea with lots of geese for company ( a little too close really)

There are pools of water on the roadsides and thick lush green grass and weeds needing a chop back. Can’t believe it’s like this in February! The guy in the camping store says they need rain! He should see the state of the land back a few 100km.!!

After a quick lunch stop at Warialda and a brief chat to the local info people (not aware of any road closures) we started to climb. We were taking the back roads across fords, and through granite and forest country, fenced with black cattle wandering and the occasional grid across the road.

Evidence of recent significant rains was clear with water on fords or evidence that it recently has been.

From the dirt roads we looked out at dark soil ( almost black) and crops of corn.

Then into more forest and granite ( great contours) and a drive along the border for a few km before we got to Texas (!!!) and got brave enough to cross into Queensland.

Since then it feels like we have climbed through numerous hills, as we make our way steadily towards Stanthorpe.

With no designated rest area in sight we stopped in a cleared area just near a small Telstra exchange and made a reviving cuppa from the last of the hot water in the thermos.

We made our way to Ridgemill Estates ( on the Granite belt just below Stanthorpe) where Peter McGlashen is the winemaker and revisited some of their wines. They were still as good as we remembered. Unfortunately Peter wasn’t there, so we still haven’t managed to meet him.

Then we tried to find somewhere for the night. After a number of ventures into the areas near railway, river and bush ( national Park sites were closed in one park) we decided to stay in the Sundown National Park and then found that it was a genuine 4WD to get in the 7.5 km to our allocated camp site ( we used limited coverage to pay online as we entered the park) .

After a km or so we spotted a flattish area off of the rugged rocky track and decided to opt for the more rational way…camping gently outside of the allocated camps but avoiding potential tyre injury and avoiding driving this track in dark.

The clouds were pink as the sun set and we have now eaten a quick tea and are ready to drop into our swags after another 500plus km day.

We hope that they don’t lose control of any of those burning dead trees that we drove in past a couple of hours ago and that the mozzies don’t carry us away in the night.

As it turned out there was no fire overnight but we did have some excitement.

Unbelievably, three vehicles came in along the track at about 11pm and drove right on past us.

By then we had been experiencing a lightning show for hours. Not long after that it started to rain, and did so sporadically for the next hour or two as we snoozed away in the swags

The first stop this morning was a check of the Darling river from the old dock. From way up above we looked down at a fuller river than we have seen so far. A wide expanse of very milky coffee flowed along happily in the warm morning air beneath a cloudless pale sky.

The local ambos joined us ( with some real coffee) to check out the rising river levels, and then the local cops.

A short way out of town we passed Dry Bogan Rd!!

Another 20 or so km along and we hit a patch which must have had lots of rain. Lush green roadside growth and green feed as far as the eye could see was a delight.

As we came within about 120km of Lightning Ridge on the back road through Narram Lake nature reserve we came across two different vehicles within about one km, parked on the side of the road and with the driver out and examining the road surface. One had a small prospectors hammer. We figure they were fossicking along the road, hoping to find some colour after the recent rains.

We stopped in at Cumborah for lunch just before 1 pm by the dirt oval.

I used the composting toilet ( maintained by volunteers) and picked a mud map out of the plastic tub offering them to read the local tourist info.

Apparently there is a major weed problem with Hudson Pear near here. Looks terrible. We saw some flourishing a bit later and also some which appeared to have been poisoned.

We ate our lunch under the shelter, looking out at the “campground” -patches of flat dirt between sparse scattered trees, and listened to the mournful cries of a peacock????

Then we headed on our way towards Lightning Ridge itself. The town information service was friendly. We stocked up on milk and followed the various mapped “ car door” self drive tours to see the sights. Lots of piles of dirt and accommodation that looked very uncomfortable.

Not far out of town there was a toilet by the side of the road with this ingenious invention for lighting the toilet at night. Shine car lights on to the lower metal plate. The light reflects up to the plate on the top of the pole, which then reflects it on to the polycarbonate roofing of the composting toilet, thus giving some light inside.

We took the extra long way on as we tried to take the back road through to Collarenebri, but came to a closed road due to water on the road, so had to retrace and take the highway.

Once we got to Collarenebri we decided to investigate the “Primitive campsite” and to our delight found a flattish spot beside the flowing Barwon river, so decided to stop for the night in this ideal position.

We made use of the campground toilets and decent showers so hit our swags in clean condition

There are still lots of flies about and it is warm, but not as bad as last night, so hopefully the flies will eventually quit bugging us and the cockies will shut up too and let us get a bit of a sleep.

Below are a few different road views from across the day.

After checking out of our highly decorated hotel…

We headed off to have breakfast at “the silly goat”

Then on to the Pro Hart gallery where we enjoyed and admired his artwork. Who knew he played the organ???

The next stop was a bit of a scenic tour to Broken Hill South to revisit fond memories of a visit to family as a kid. Here’s a pic for you Sally and Pip…. with fond memories

Then on the road again. Our early plan was to stop at the Horse and Wagons campground just past Wilcannia, but it was only reasonably early when we arrived, and too hot to stop.

We paused for a late lunch at this campground in the Paroo- Darling National park on the banks of the Darling River ( now a series of puddles). Looking to the deep area on the bend it was low but still about 20m wide as far as we could see (not far) but back upstream it was easy to see the dry bed between short patches of moisture. This area was part of Wilga station until it became park in 2002.

The road was very wide and variable through the drive

At 6.30 pm we pulled in to check out the Yanda campground off of the road to Burke. There’s clearly been a LOT of water around here and there is obvious green in stark contrast to the area we have come through over the last two days, but the temperature is saying 40 degrees,

so we have opted to head on in to Burke another 40 or so km to find some air conditioning at a motel.

We successfully located a room with a good air conditioner and happily paid up. So here we are, slumming it again.

Not as inexpensive as camping by the river but a lot more comfy given the weather.

We’ve seen lots of goats today, a couple of eagles and a couple of emus along with a few sheep and a couple of cows. Goats win.

We had enjoyed a lazy breakfast and relaxed pack up and were heading out along Mallett Rd towards our Broken Hill destination at 9 am.

The goal is to be there to do some touristing this afternoon as neither of us has spent time there as tourists.

Someone put in a lot of effort to clear the land up here and to build some solid buildings. Now the area is dotted with ruins and the occasional prickly pear sitting on the red dust.

It was interesting to see the different railway stations. Yunta had a fancy one. Olary a basic one

Water in many of the creeks.

Numerous goat and eagle sightings.

Miners memorial in Broken Hill is moving. So much unnecessary loss of life!

The living desert gave us a good look at the amazing scenery.

We’ve had a lovely history walk looking at the old buildings ( so many pubs)

and an excellent dinner celebrating 36 years married.

So… here’s to us. And the next 36.

We were finally ready to leave at 1:30pm.

This was mainly due to my lack of packing preparation and some extra socialising that we added in the last couple of days.

We figured there was no need to stress as it will be light until after 7 pm.

It was very dusty as we came through Roseworthy and over the rise, towards Tarlee. We waved to “The Girls” at Tarlee as we always do and I snapped a bad photo of them for you.

We enjoyed that delightful Avenue of gums as you leave Riverton.

The wind farm near Mt Bryan was as lovely as ever. They were working on the wayside stop with the huge windmill blade on display there.

We stopped in at Hallet for a last flushing toilet stop and check on our geocache. Unfortunately the cache was nowhere to be found, so we have disabled it.

A quick stop at the local cemetery for the next closest cache, then a cup of tea-but don’t sit on that handy bench under the trees-it has pine tree sap on it.

Then on to the dirt as we skirted the Merridee and Twigham orienteering maps, and made our way to Bri Glen- our first camp spot. We had to crest the new ridge at the roadside from the recent grading as we pulled into the mallee scrub

By 5:30 we were pulling in off of the dusty track among the mallee scrub and it didn’t take long before we had the swags all sorted and were settling in for “snacks”

The Prado now has a red dust covering, and it is still quite hot. Tonight we won’t need blankets in the swags.

The flies are pretty plentiful and friendly.

We have settled down to write this, read today’s paper and complete the cryptic crossword before we enjoy a quick dinner and head for the swags.

We are looking forward to our first stop at the “million star hotel” for the decade.

We were not disappointed. The clouds cleared and it was a moonless night… perfect for star watching through the mesh over the swags.