In Maree a local dog was having a ball racing the cars down the Main Street in front of the pub.
We stopped about 1/2 hour further on for a tea break in a creek before heading onwards once more.
At Eyre Creek South we took a lunch break, with a strong breeze keeping the flies away, or eat in shelter and put up with them.
Next stop was Coward Springs, where we dropped in on the warm natural spa ( only to look) and the museum and checked that they still have a wonderful donkey water heater.
Sometime after this we got a star on our windscreen courtesy of a passing vehicle speeding the other way.
Museum
From here we headed on to Strangways, but it was still too soon to stop so we continued on with a loo stop at William Creek.
It seemed strange to see a sign saying “Eggs 1 km” just after William Creek…. And sure enough , at the entrance to a station track there was a box with eggs to sell!!!
By now we were seriously looking for somewhere to pull off and camp. A siding called Anna Creek Siding showed with a track heading in to it,so we tried our luck, and sure enough there were some amazing ( roofless) station buildings beside the old Ghan line and space for us to park mostly out of the breeze.
Siding buildings. Sunset.
We travel up the dusty track Our vehicles get a shaking. It’s getting close to 4 pm A camp we should be making.
We’ve visited our favourite spots Coward springs is looking great. But we left their gate an hour ago And now we are running late.
A railway siding beckons us To set up camp tonight We light a fire, prepare our beds And watch the fading light.
The coals are glowiing darker now The moon is sinking low The dishes washed, the teeth are brushed And off to bed we go
The night is clear and starry As we snuggle in our beds And dreams of camping holidays Fill our sleeping heads
We enjoyed pies at the Blinman bakery and took the dirt road to Parachilna, enjoying the picturesque gorges as we passed through.
Then we had a quick stop at Leigh Creek ( for fuel 50c /l cheaper than at Maree) before heading on to Farina.
We beat the rush into the campground ( just) -arriving at 4:30 and snagging ourselves a little circle of campsites with a fire spot in the middle which we used for our communal fire.
Sunset at the war memorial.
It was a mild night with a lovely clear sky. Our washing dried on the salt bush surrounding our campsite to the stage where we could travel with it inside with no fear of drips.
In the morning we had egg and bacon pies and cream buns from the bakery run by volunteers and sat admiring the restored buildings outside the newly completed Patterson House which is used as a shop. Apparently Dick Smith is coming on Friday to do the official opening.
We met Marc Turner there (from orienteering). He is on his way to Dalhousie with some other Jeep’s who are going to cross the Simpson.
If old farina’s stones could talk They’d have some tales to tell Of a bustling healthy railway town And summers as hot as Hell.
Of the sturdy folk who came out here and toiled through the years And families so bent with loss It’d bring us all to tears
She’d tell of desolation, of struggle and despair And then she’d tell of those who came and treated her with care
Who built again her buildings Restored her breath again Remembered all the history The boom days and the pain
Now a thriving, happy campground A refuge to lay your head A place to purchase sticky buns And good wood oven bread.
Appila Springs was a lovely spot to explore this morning. The water was trickling over the rocks into the pools below and friendly people and dogs chatted to us as we explored briefly before heading onwards.
We headed on to the Flinders, passing Eurelia (one of our favourite little towns) and arriving at Rawnsley at about 12:30. There, we checked in at the office before heading out to the event (about 6 km up the road to Wilpena).
After the event we found the spot where the Colwells were camping and camped there along with Al and Zita, Heinz, and John and Carol Such. We had a small fire and cooked our tea on it.
First night with all 3 of us together on our big trip
It wasn’t long after 9 when the party started breaking up as we headed off for bed.
In olden days Eurelia was quite a thriving town. Nowadays you blink and miss it and it’s pretty well run down
I heard a little story of how things used to be And maybe you’ll enjoy it too-so I’ll tell it now to thee
The railways used to come through here ( you still can see the siding) And as the train came passing through The driver’d shout this tiding
“You’re a liar” he would shout As the train pulled past the station. ( not something you expect to hear in this, our civilised nation)
And as the train pulled out again From the final car Another railway worker shouted Out the phrase “You really are”
Unusual name for a little town Can be said either way As you pass through you try it too It’s a fun game you can play.
Day 3 was spent helping with and competing in the orienteering event held by Tintookies at Wilpena Spurs.
A red capped Robin happily had a conversation with us for a while, but no golden whistler today ( like there was last October)
After the gate monitor was no longer required ( event all packed up and last person out) we headed back to Rawnsley and showers before taking part in an OHOC “nibbles and drinks” event and then cooked pork steak and veg on the fire.
Rainbow over Rawnsley
As the rain started to spattter a bit more consistently we headed for bed-hopefully to have a good rest ready for the event tomorrow and the drive further north with the WA wanderers.
209&66km
Roads all bitumen except Sacred Canyon rd and Rawnsley Tracks.
Diesel at Hawker 43.07l @ $1.499/l ($64)
The morning of 14/6 was spent orienteering again ( this time at Rawnsley Park) before showers,a fill of the thermos, wash of the breakfast dishes and a quick cuppa.
We were graced with the presence of a majestic wedgie as we finished our courses.
It was a late start. We pulled out of home at 2.50pm after a mad flurry of packing. We are not sure yet how much has been forgotten. Trevor and I are both thinking there is too much food for the fridge ( some didn’t fit and is in a bag with cold bricks).
An unplanned visit to Snowy’s for some gas stove fittings added to the joy of the day. ( they had what we needed and it was inexpensive)
We filled Jerry cans and topped up our tank at Pooraka before heading northwards. We decided to deviate off of the Port Wakefield rd – and drove via Malalla, Balaklava, Blyth, Brinkworth, Georgetown and then Appila to Appila Springs- a lovely scenic spot only a few km up the road by the Appila Creek.
Just out of Balaklava the Hilux passed 200,000km on the odometer.
We had a strange bunny experience today as we drove along the dark road heading for Appila a bunny was caught in the beam of our lights. It changed direction about half a dozen times before finally leaving the road and avoiding a messy end.
Unfortunately it was dark by the time we arrived, so we found a spot a bit away from other campers and by 7.35pm were finishing our cups of tea and ready to climb into bed.
Tea was a luscious three course meal. Garlic prawn entree, pre cooked Chilli con carne with a Cab Merlot and then berries and cake with cream… all washed down with a cuppa made from the thermos.
Like all the grey nomads we will need to be up at sparrows fart soon enough and going to bed with the sun, as that will be the way to manage seeing the sights before the heat of the day in The Kimberly. It’s hard to believe we will soon be swimming and wearing only shorts and T shirts each day very soon. Might as well start getting our bodies used to it now.
Here’s how we have the van set up. We thought some of you might be interested to see the logistics. The choosing and packing of food has been a whole other story and will take up a whole other blog post.
This is the first cupboard as you walk in and easiest to get to. All the plates, pans, cups and cutlery are in the top shelf. Lunch makings, toilet paper and condiments plus paper towel are down the bottom.This is the big cupboard under the sink. Dinner and dessert makings, cider, washing, cleaning and wrapping stuff, cooking tools and the collapsable bowl in front of the water container. And most importantly, our beds are ready to go-all made up ready for the cold weather we expect in the next week.
There are only a few things to do still. Shop for last minute fresh food tomorrow and just a little more organising of technology mostly. The priority now is to have one last visit with Ben, Jasmine and the beautiful Sophia. We will need to stock up on lots of cuddles today.
Today we said goodbye to Hiltaba after approximately 50 km of walking in the week. Some of the group are heading for Streaky Bay, Dark Peak, Gawler Ranges and many for home via various routes.
Hiltaba has been an amazing property to visit and we encourage you all to do so if you can.
As we arrived for breakfast at 7:30 some were already about to leave!
We took our time over weetbix ( the only remaining cereal) and toasted sour dough bread left from last night, and then shared the cleaning of the dining room with Verna and Beda.
Graders were parked quite close to the Hiltaba road and we assumed they have been at work recently. The road was pretty good from there on.
We gradually made our way past the various stations, counting off Yardia, Mt Ive , Kolendo, Nonning, Siam, Uno, Corunna.
Morning tea was had at 1130, 240 km into the drive
Lots was going on at the army restricted area today, with many tanks and personnel in place.
We broke up the drive a little more with a half hour lunch break and pumped our tyres back up to road pressure at the BP truck stop Port Augusta and left there just a bit after 1pm.
We stopped at Crystal Brook for a cuppa in a local park and then headed on via back roads.
Next was another cuppa, this time with with Rodney in Owen, where we caught up for 1hr before heading onwards again.
Tea was with Ben, Jasmine and Sophia (for some extra cuddles) before we finally made tracks for home base.
Today we drove a short way from the shearer’s quarters to the start of a nature drive. A Goat feeder was the first item of interest. The goats are fed here for a while and get used to being in the area and can then be rounded up more easily
Yellow footed rock wallabies are also found near here. They are left to themselves as much as possible so our walks avoided their area.
There were some really great Bullock bushes on this walk.
Bev had believed that these are revered as they are like the ancient aboriginal men guarding the gorges. In fact this is actually a tale that Craig told Bev and she believed. And I believed her.
1.4 km in to the walk we came to Barry bore. Here there are three solar panels and water is pumped back to the homestead. The old shed which now holds the solar controller once held a Diesel engine and then, briefly, a generator ( while the solar was not yet in use)
We enjoyed a short deviation into a bit of a rocky gorge, while some chose to do the rock hopping, and others opted for a longer sit at the entrance to the gorge.
Morning tea was had as we emerged from the gorge. This was a seemingly endless array of treats from the station kitchen and various walkers. (Yum)
Turning towards home, we headed for a saddle, crossing over an area of beautiful pearl bluebush and picked our way between the good variety of vegetation ( including lots of spinifex) , stopping to reassemble the group at the top before heading down the other side.
The walk back from here was a real treat. A Park like setting was produced by the beautiful bullock bush, spinifex and various salt bushes as we walked back between hills sporting dramatic pillars of red granite. This is the area they call the pillars of the earth.
We stopped briefly at Warner’s bore ( with mill) on the drive home, hearing the sad story of the goats trapped in the tank of the bore. Numerous bones in the tank are testament to the truth of this sorry tale.
After a filling minestrone soup and sausage roll we had a grand tour of the partially restored shearing shed ( seven shearer’s stand) and the restored wool press before showing off our own camper to those who are interested.
We also got some insight into how others pack for camping from Ian and Sheila and will make some changes to our set up accordingly.
Emus and wombats seem to be regulars in this country. There have been a group of five emus in the area which we see every now and again all week, and wombats next to their burrows sighted going in and out from most of the walks. These seemed usually to slip down into their burrows fairly quickly as we drove past.
On this, our last evening we queued as usual for a shower ( men’s, ladies or unisex-for couples) in the 3 shower block and then headed across for nibbles at 4 pm instead of dessert.
This bled into thankyous and a time for history. Bev had set us some history tasks (make your own explanation of these epitaphs) and a few of us had something to share. Eliza Kennedy’s epitaph said “Her charity covers a multitude of sins” Bob shared the sad song of Eliza ( a plain maid) who lost her heart to a cheating salesman from Sydney and died a lonely death near Cobham.
I told the tale in rhyme of Eliza Kennedy , who stole from her employer to clothe the poor.
Eliza worked for Bill the Draper (number 10 Main street)
She'd often see the desperate souls with nothing left to eat.
They'd walk around in rags and be so cold in winter time.
Their families were not so blessed as to have work up at the mine.
Eliza took some scraps of fabric (left overs she woudl find)
Surely Bill the Draper, wouldn't really mind??
As others slept Eliza sewed for those who needed most
And through the day she "saved" more scraps as she worked at her post.
Until the day the truth showed clear. Bill saw what she had done.
He cornered her and as she cowered, shot her with his gun.
So did Eliza earn her death by choosing this to do?
or was she saved by following a heart so kind and true?
I like to think her gravestone has the final word today
If more space were available it really ought to say
"Although she stole the fabric, needles, cotton and the pins
Her charity it covereth a multitude of sins"
Verna told us of her great great grandfather who came to Tasmania as a convict and settled in Inman Valley. We had been wondering about him all week after reading his epitaph. “ God knows the secrets of his heart”.
Lasagna for dinner was followed by one final campfire and some dancing-including an attempt to learn the Jerusalema dance. ( music supplied from Kevin’s boom box)
This day started with some tree planting of local species near the shearer’s quarters. Fifty one trees were planted into the prepared holes. Thanks to Kathryn for much of the hole digging.
Coral – the “tree lady”
Most of the group headed out to do the Barbara Hardy walk. Although the walk is only 6 km in length, it involves quite a bit of rock hopping.
We started in quite a cool, stiff breeze. As we climbed the hill the breeze was noticeable. Chunky red rocks made the climb tricky as we picked each foot placement. I was very glad to have my walking sticks with me.
We found a spot just before the summit and sheltered from the wind behind a rocky outcrop for morning tea with a view. Then it was on to the summit, where we took a group photo in the blustery breeze before heading onwards.
The hike back down the hill was quite tricky in places, with some slippery rock surfaces with pebbles of rock to slip on and some stony places where you needed to watch your footing. There were stunning views down to Lake Acraman in the far distance and across the landscape and many dramatic rocky outcrops to admire.
Trevor Reflecting
We reached the car park in approximately 6 km and drove on to an area of flat rock with rock holes, where we enjoyed our lunch before driving home to the quarters. Two rock holes here are covered over with wood to protect them. Rocks around the edge complete the picture.
Kevin fixing camera
Wombats were a feature of the day again, with many spotted beside their burrows as we drove, and many burrows to avoid beside the tracks. They make quite a driving hazard.
Later in the afternoon we were invited over to the homestead, where we enjoyed scones and a cuppa on the veranda and then a tour of the impressive house. Those who hadn’t already seen it walked up to take a look at the embankment.
Then there was time for a break for a couple of hours before dinner.
A “rest day”. Up for 7:30 am cooked breakfast before driving out to Pretty Point with Mike and Carole.
Here we did the Betty and Bob Lewis walk-a spectacular walk between the granite boulders with wonderful views in many directions.
After morning tea there, we hopped back into Michael and Carole’s car and headed on, following Kevin on a scenic drive.
Our six cars travelled in convoy, stopping by an old dray ( a Hillyard Steel Wheel Wagon)
and the Trump dam ( named after the winner of the 1937 Melbourne Cup Winner)
before stopping along the track, where Chris and Maria ( part of the Hiltaba team) met us with home made pasties ( delicious) with a chocolate chaser from Kevin.
The next stop was the North Wall where we enjoyed exploring the surroundings and the testament to the hardworking farmers of the last century. This, like the embankment close to the homestead , is a massive wall across the watercourse. This is thought to be built by the Fitzgerald brothers in the late 19th century. The area is fed from the creek that runs from the hills but also traps feral goats when they are mustered.
We ventured up the creek , examining the rocks and enjoying the dramatic scenery of red, orange and black granite and beautiful rock pools.
The tour finished with a scenic tour home, partly on neighbouring property, including investigating the upturned car near the road. It looked as though it had been rolled over to take the catalytic converter.
We were treated to views of wombats on the way back home and then Trevor assisted the herding of some stray sheep (Dorpers) into the yards. These sheep have been on the property for a while, causing consternation, so the team are very happy to finally trap them and hand them over to their owners. ( and get them off of the property)
Another campfire, a bit more music and an early night was the go.
Today most of the walkers got to the cairn on Mt Hiltaba. Erica was not among them.
B walkers went from the shearer’s quarters to the homestead, and then on the Warren Bonython loop , which takes you up past the old embankment across the gully which makes a permanent pool.
There are a series of pools and lots of red rocks alaong with some wonderful views as you climb up the gully until you stand looking over at Mt Hiltaba on the other side of a saddle.
Some small sweet plants struggle on gamely
The B walkers climbed down to the saddle and then up to the top of the mount. Then they continued on down the other side and looped back to the shearer’s quarters.
One section had been burnt – the delineation of bunrnt and not-burnt clearly visible.
The c walkers drove to a track near the saddle, looped around in the opposite direction onto the mount, (waiting for the B walkers at the top) and then down to the saddle and back to the cars.
We both did a variation of this. Trevor walked with the B walkers to the mount, then looped around to where the hilux had been parked, down from the saddle and met the C walkers there, hitching a lift back to the shearer’s quarters.
Erica assisted to place the Hiltaba hilux near the saddle before going back with Chris to the homestead, assisting with peeling potatoes, and then having a cuppa with the volunteers before following the B walkers up the hill. She turned at the top of the hill looking out over Mt Hiltaba and retraced her steps, never sighting the grass wrens she was seeking in the spinifex. She then cut across to the shearer’s quarters via the sad little grave of young Gilbert and the interesting dump and dam. After 7 km and quite a rocky climb, mulga parrots welcomed me home to the deserted spot.
C walkers went 6km
Both of us enjoyed many wonderful vistas
We’ve seen mulga parrots a number of times this week. They usually seem to be in a group with the bright green males and duller ( but still pretty) females.
Magpie Larks seem to like our camper early in the morning and have entertained us with their many varied calls as we have lain in our warm beds as sunrise flies outside.
I had time to do the washing and be ready for a shower when the others returned and the generator was turned on.
Once again there was a lovely fire which I was too tired to make the most of.
Luvapuzzle 