Luvapuzzle

25/6/21 Out of the Bungles

Before we left there were just a couple more things we needed to do, so after the pack up we walked off from our campground on the little loop walk that Ev had recommended. We were really glad that we did. It was surprising how much could be seen and learnt from the signs in this small area. We enjoyed learning about the plants in particular.

Then we headed off, stopping at the lookout near the visitor centre for one last walk up a hill to sit and stare in wonder just a little more at the ranges of hills of various ages that are part of the park.

Good example of how the rock looks close up.

Then it was time to tackle the road out ( in daylight this time). We met Al and Zita at the junction with the main road ( just finished reinflating their tyres).

Both morning tea and lunch were enjoyed at brief roadside stops on the way to Kununurra. We made it here without using the second Jerry can of fuel and without buying fuel which was very expensive between Halls Creek and Kununurra. We put 110 litres into the tank before finding our caravan park and checking in.

First priorities were showers (The first since Alice Springs) and clothes washing. Both were quickly accomplished and we took the time to watch the sun set over the river just in front of the park, watch the bats fly over and chat to fellow travellers. Very relaxing.

Then out for Chinese with our SA WA wander mates. Very lazy and delightful.

Kununurra is much smaller than I imagined and I’m wondering how we will go buying provisions. That will be part of the next chapter of this story.

24/6/21 Echidna Chasm and Mini Palms

While Al and Zita went out to ride in a helicopter ( after flat battery and jump start) we headed out to Echidna Chasm.

Word is you should be here in the middle of the day, but everyone aims for that, so we decided to enjoy less crowd and cooler weather and be there before the masses.

The chasm between two great mountains of rock is amazing and cannot be fully captured in a photo. It is a very narrow space in places and would be terrible in a crowd.

Today it was beautiful and just kept on. When you think you can go no further it continues on into the chasm in the red rock. The soaring faces of rock stretched high above our heads.

We made the detour along the path to the Osmand lookout on the way back to the car, enjoying the wonderful views over the Osmand range ( far older than the Bungles)

Then, as we enjoyed a quiet cuppa and discussed how on earth the metal boat got on and off of that 4WD, Evelyn headed out along the track to the mini palms.

We drove around to the Bloodwoods car park and walked in from there, meeting her at the inner end of the Mini Palms walk.

This walk was tougher and required some big steps and scrambling over rocks to reach the view at the end of the walk. The Livingstona Palms are a lovely sight against the red rock background.

We made a brief detour to another lookout before lunch under the shade sails and a cuppa from the thermos

Evelyn and Craig headed off for yet another walk while we cruised back for the short circuit at Stonehenge where we read about how the Aborigines used various plants as we strolled around the short path.

We crossed the path of a fire truck moving slowly along the road with flashing lights and kicking up heaps of dust. It turned out he was tugging along 2 big tyres in an effort to remove some of the bumps. This was somewhat successful

Then back to camp to relax, write up the blog, do some washing and prepare to leave tomorrow for Kununurra.

23/6/21- Domes at the Bungles

Today we had a very early morning as our neighbours headed out early to see the sunrise. They drove out at 5:20am. They were back again by about 7:30 starting to pack up.

It was Craig’s birthday so we had an early gift giving ( once we found the gift and card) before we started touring.

We headed south for the day, from our home at the Kurrajong campsite, making the beehive domes, that we have heard so much about, our priority.

It was great to see them coming in to view and then to have the joy of walking among these ancient rocks.

After a loop through the domes we continued on to Cathedral Gorge, where we were treated to the sounds of Andy Williams version of Ave Maria in Saint Bernadette (?)-must look up the details when we have service- sung by a fellow traveller to enjoy the acoustics. Also an impromptu Irish Flute performance for the same reason.

Unfortunately cane toads are an obvious presence in the area, living in the hollows of erosion in the rocky areas of creek beds

After that we continued on to Piccaninny Creek Lookout, where we were treated to a spectacular view.

We then headed back to the car park with Al to consider the second flat tyre for the trip ( both on his fancy new Prado). Unfortunately Al had a second tyre, but no rim and neither of us are carrying tools to do this job. Luckily Trevor had packed a tyre repair kit and was able to plug the tyre and it appears to have held.

Celebrations under the “party tent” which has been erected in the front of our campsite to keep the campsite when the vehicle is out and to meet under.

We added one Jerry can of fuel to the tank which should get us to Kununurrra.

69 km
Rough corrugated road

Ancient landscape
Sculpted by the passage of ages
Patient layering 
great upheavals, 
the work of wind and water. 
Powerful forces over time

Before my ancestors you were here. 
Ancient rock already

And here I stand in this tiny moment
Marvelling,,wondering
Adding my footsteps to the thousands before me
Awestruck

And left with the ancient unanswered questions:

Who am I?
Why am I?

22/6/21 long drive to Purnululu

We had an earlier start , leaving at 8.30 from camp.

Ross and Jan had already been gone for at least an hour.

Our first stop was Wolfe Creek Crater, where we marvelled at the power that could move so much earth.

Then in to Halls Creek where we added fuel and shopped before heading out to Caroline pool. Caroline pool is about 15 km out of town and a beautiful tranquil spot. A number of local women ( and one cute small kid) were fishing with hand lines. The pool drops away sharply and they told us you can’t touch the bottom.

We had probably taken too much time here and were now pushing to be at our site in the Bungle Bungles ( Purnululu) before dark. We didn’t quite make it.

The road in to the Bungles is renowned as one of the worst in the Gibb river region and we had read it could take up to 4 hours to drive the 53 km.

We managed the hundred or so km from Halls Creek, marvelling at the Boab trees that had started to show on the sides of the road.

It was just after 4 pm when we started the drive in. Sadly sunset is about 5 pm here. The drive in took around an hour and a half and gave no problems. There were a few creek crossings with water. We were treated to the most fantastic views of the ranges as we drove in, lit up in the rosy sunset.

Arriving at the visitors centre, registering and then finding somewhere to stop for the night took another hour. We were touring through the campsite trying to define the empty spaces in the dark. Eventually Craig and Ev pulled up on the side of a track and Al and Zita persuaded someone to move their car so they could pull alongside. We found a site after deciding to pull in to a space and finding it was a site. Our neighbours were moving out in the next morning so Craig and Ev planned to move across to join us then.

We are on site 12. We have a tap and toilet right nearby as well as a table with benches either side and a bit of bush on one side so we only have the Colwells for neighbours.

21/6/21 day 11- rellies on the Tanami

We left camp just after 9 this morning. We were only about 20 km from the border.

90 km on from the border Al and Zita had a flat tyre. Just after that we stopped for morning tea by a bit of a dam. Lots of birds here to enjoy.

Driving on, we agreed to have lunch at Sturt Creek. As we came close to the turn off, suddenly a familiar voice came over the radio-it was Ross!! And then we saw Janette ( Trevor’s sister) by the side of the road.

Turning in, we found their vehicle and a beautiful green and tree lined body of water, with vibrant bird life.

We decided to stop here with them for the night. Ross helped out by identifying some of the birds for us ( and from photos we have taken). He also showed us where a whistling kite has a nest.

168km
Mostly dirt

20/6/21 A day on the Tanami

Today we spent all day on the Tanami.

It was a late start ( after 11) due to getting up a bit later and some repairs required for Al and Zita. We had company for a while before we left-travellers going the other way whose brains we picked. Their bike carrier needed fixing and Craig helped here.

Sounds like the road to Mitchell falls will be a real challenge.

We stopped not long after we started ( Renihan’s bore) at 1220 for lunch. The tiny geckos here were lovely ,and also an unusual grevillea

We stopped again for a cuppa at 4 pm before finally doing the last leg.

Wiki camps showed a camp with a view but , although it is a scenic enough track intersection we have stopped at, you could hardly call it a camp with a view.

We have been impressed by the beauty of the Tanami today. Corrugated dark red roads with lush vegetation on either side and millions of termite mounds added in. Hardly a desert.

We made camp at 5:30pm

347 km today
Dirt except for a brief bitumen section ( no idea why)

The verse today was written this morning after watching our chairs in the breeze.

Synchronised falling (for chairs) 

All the modern chairs are doing it
It’s really quite a craze
You can see it happening everywhere
On very windy days

They do it quite instinctively
So natural at the art
It must be something buried
Deep in every chair heart

It really is spectacular
To witness in the raw
There’s really truly nothing
Like it that I’ve seen before

A stiff breeze comes a calling
To the place where chairs are found 
And the chairs in perfect unison
Go falling to the ground

As if on-cue they take a dive
It’s graceful to behold
I think the dive I saw this morning
Really should win Gold.

19/6/21 heading across the Tanami

We spent the morning getting organised and then explored the Olive Pink Botanic Gardens while we waited for our whole group to be ready to go.

At the botanic gardens we had a really good look at a juvenile western bower bird and white plumed honeyeater as well as a yellow throated miner and ring neck parrots.

Olive Pink, who created these gardens must have been a very single minded lady. It sounds as though she created all sorts of havoc around the area, mostly on behalf of the local aborigines. She lived a tough old life and still made it to 91!

This is my verse ( purely imagined) on the subject of this lady with the unusual name.

A posse  of  young ladies
Lived in Hobart town they say
Back in the 1900s
And there was hell to pay

Educated ladies 
they  were thinkers and strong minded
And to societie’s desires 
They seemed to be quite blinded

Young scarlet  Green, the youngest one
Spurned all the lads advances 
She loved to climb the mountains but she wouldn’t go to dances

Primrose Black , a writer
Had her nose stuck in her books
And didn’t even notice
When there were admiring looks

But Olive Pink she beat them all
With wit as sharp as nails
It seemed to all the upper crust
That she was off the rails

Instead  of gently settling down
And painting pretty art
She took off to The Territory
And the natives stole her heart

She left Hobart for the Alice
With never a ‘beg your pardon’
And instead of raising family
Raised a botanic garden!

At 11.30 we were on the road and we ended up going 408km. The Tanami was excellent ( except for the roadworks) until just after Tilmouth Well (300km) when it turned to quite corrugated dirt. ( still much more pleasant than the Ghan road)

We ended up exploring Mt Doreen ruins

area looking for the leaders who had got away from us and finally drove on to Floodout Creek and found them there.

408km
Fuel at Tilmouth Well 20 litres at $1.99/litre=$39.90
Mileage 9.6l/100km!!!

18/6/21-Alice Springs

I missed my granddaughter Sophia in the night. So this is a poem just for her.

Missing Sophia 

Sweet baby girl I’m wide awake
And thinking now of you 
I wonder at this moment,
if you’re up..and Mummy too???
 
I’d love to see your pretty face
And hold you as you doze
To see those lovely dimples
And that little snubby nose

To watch you gaze around the room
To see your little smile
And then to hold you as you sleep
Just for a little while

Instead I’m lying in my bed
Beside the old Ghan track
But little girl, it won’t be long
And grandma will be back.

We left camp just after 9. And had completed the road into Alice Springs by around 11.

As we came towards the city we could see a mass of white and wondered what it was. It turned out to be about 100 planes ( parked on the land at the airport due to COVID flight cuts) It was hard to get a good picture from the road

Now our washing and shopping are done. We’ve consulted the windscreen experts, who advised that we have a number of windscreen chips, but it really isn’t worth replacing it right now considering the planned route, so we will expect more cracks and keep going as long as the driver can see ok.

We have topped up with fuel and the boys are off trying to find a UHF radio suitable for Al so that we can solve some of the communication issues. Water is topped up and we smell all clean.

Tomorrow we will be off across the Tanami so there will probably be no communication for a few days. We will post when we can.

Just for your amusement I thought you might enjoy the graphics on the loos in the caravan park here

169km
Mostly dirt
64 litres @ 146.8c/l

17/6/21

Eringa waterhole was our first stop this morning. This is a beautiful spot with plenty of room for camping. We had an early cuppa there ( only an hour or so since we broke camp).

We visited the ruins there and admired the red dock(?)

and the budgies hanging around. There was a huge water hole. Very beautiful.

We crossed into the Northern Territory at exactly midday-and took a photo of the COVID sign.

Soon after that we arrived at Charlotte Waters. This is just a rocky area with a few aged signs and artifacts. Charlotte Waters was named after Lady Charlotte Bacon. This was one of 12 repeater stations between Darwin and Adelaide and closed in 1930.

At Finke we had a little incident where we lost track of Al and Zita as we headed through town, and had to double back to look for them. This took quite a while. We also had our most interesting bit of track just out of Finke.

We had lunch at Rumbalara siding @3pm after driving for quite a while on a road that we couldn’t get off of. The road was very corrugated and sandy as well. The Finke race was last weekend so the track has had plenty of traffic lately.

Race road and heritage road beside each other

We met the grader on the road as we were expecting to pull in soon to camp. What a relief after the last couple of hours of corrugations.

It was just after 5pm when we pulled into our little campsite for the night. it already had a fire spot, some wood and enough phone reception to make a phone call if required. ( from the top of the Sandhill)

274km
All rough dirt road

Ruins ruins
Life was tough
Living out here
Living rough

Rattle bang  rattle bang
Down the line
Not too sure
which road is mine

Washout washout 
Watch your step
You don’t want to finish
As a railway wreck

Oh dear oh dear
Where are our friends?
Comb the town
From end to end

Hooray hooray
Here they are!
Lucky for all
They didn’t stray far

Sandhills Sandhills 
Far and wide
With beautiful campsite
Nestled inside

Fire fire
Coals glow red
Tired drivers
Off to bed

16/6/21

After a lovely evening and quiet night we broke camp at 9 am and met a grader on the way to Algebuckina Bridge (our morning tea stop). On the way we saw a black breasted kite. At Algebuckina we stopped at 1045 to check out the bridge and soak in the atmosphere for 3/4 of an hour.

At about Midday we reached Oodnadatta , where we filled again ($198.9/litre) before heading onwards.

Once we had turned on to the Mt Dare ( less busy) road we stopped at the first creek we came to,and braving the sandy track in, we found a spot to park in among the trees for lunch. A friendly bearded dragon was discovered. He remained happily sunning himself through our lunch break and even allowed photos and some stroking.

As we continued on, we came across some beautiful Sturt peas, and stopped to photograph them. As we were stopped we noticed that Al and Zita were leaking water. It was the tank in their van draining dry! A rock must have kicked up from the road and broken off the plastic tap at the bottom of their water tank.

Bright red beside the sandy track
A stunning sight to see
Surprising desert flower 
that they call Sturt’s desert pea

The flowers stand erect and wave 
their flags of black and red above the pale  greyish green 
That offers them a bed. 

Unusual and beautiful,
This small Sturts desert pea  
growing in the wild
Seems a miracle to me.

Eventually Hamilton Station border came. Not much later we came to Tent Hole where we pulled in on the rocky ground beside the water hole. This is our delightful spot for tonight.

This campsite has the first of the mulla Mullas we have seen.

We have another fire lit making some coals to cook tea on and a lovely waterhole to look at and great company. What a wonderful life.

Why is it we are missing our new grandchild so much???

319km
Dirt road
67 litres diesel @198.9c/l