31/8/21 Heading across the Nullarbor from Peak Charles

We packed up from our little bush camp in the shadow of Peak Charles and quickly checked out the start of the walk trail. It looks like the last part of the walk (to the top of the mountain) is a bit extreme. Apparently it is unable to be rated as it exceeds the walk criteria. You need to be able to lift your own weight multiple times as you climb, to be able to find your own foot and hand holds and to crab walk on hands and feet facing out from the mountain with a drop below you.. If you are short you may need assistance from someone else who can lift you. I guess there is no easier walk path hidden around the back of the mountain. You can count me out on this walk. Someone will be sorry when they realise that they have left their bag of rice, flour and pasta behind on the picnic table at the start of the trailhead.

Peak Charles

We opted to continue on our planned route. This meant tackling the rough road out again that we took in at twilight last night. It looked worse in the brighter light. Considering that it probably gets very little traffic it is amazing that the corrugations and pot holes are so bad. It certainly woke us up.

Pink gums. Looked like they had been painted

Not long after turning back on to the Lake King to Norseman road (which is not much better) we were met with a choice. There was now a “4WD only” sign on the rest of the road. We could take the right hand option (the Kumarl to Lake King Rd) or stick to the plan. We decided to stay with the planned road. It does go between lakes, and is therefore at risk of being a muddy mess, but was actually not too bad. Quite a lot of this section had not been burned in the last few years. It was lovely to have the older gum trees and healthy vegetation crowding along the road as we drove.

We met the highway after 50km and one hour. Not too bad.

Only 20 or so km later we decided to investigate Bromus Dam. We pulled in from the road into the huge network of dirt tracks dotted with the occasional picnic table and rubbish bin and even a toilet. The dam is a big square one with a swimming rope hanging from a big tree and a little boat tied up in one corner. A huge stone inlet from a pipe-line drops into the dam.

There was a cute bit of artwork here. Painted rocks and wood, plaster butterflies and information on a tree told the story of a family stuck there in June this year waiting for lockdowns to be lifted so they could get home. Presumably they made it and are now locked down in NSW. The little monument felt like a piece of history.

After our refreshing cuppa and break we stayed on the highway for less than 10 km before we allowed ourselves to be distracted into another side trip. This time it was the Dundas Tourist Drive, which wound through the wooded area and old gold-mining towns towards Norseman, with interpretive signage along the way. The first of these mines started in 1892, and there is still active mining in the area today, along with relics of the past. Old streets now empty, an old cricket pitch and, of course, lots of hills and gullies along with some cliffs and dams.

We finally hit Norseman at lunchtime and stopped there, buying delicious Thai curry for lunch at the takeaway shop in the Main Street and topping up on less expensive fuel. ($1.649/ litre). Then we moved on again.

A cuppa at Balladonia was the next break. Did you know that Balladonia was created as a refuelling stop for those coming to and from the Empire Games in Perth in 1962. It was originally 25 km further east from the current location. As we travelled east we could see the old homestead at the original site, and the big red rocks standing out on their own. Apparently the name “Balladonia” is derived from the local aboriginal language and means “big red rock by itself”

It wasn’t too long before we were on the long straight stretch, listening to Pink Floyd and checking out the stops. There was no-one parked near the old shelter and tank at 4:30 pm!!!

We pulled in at about 5:30 just as the sun was setting. We chose a place called “Howie’s Find”. It is really just a spot among the trees with wood for a fire and far enough in from the road that we can’t hear the traffic from the highway enough to bother us and they can’t see us in here. We have a little fire for warmth and to boil the billy and have enjoyed the schnitzel that we bought from Joc’s butcher, with mashed potatoes, carrots, broccoli and pepper sauce. We will enjoy our cup of tea as we watch the stars above and keep warm by our little fire. Then we will snuggle into our bed. It doesn’t get much better than this.

Published by Contributors

A number of contributors may add to this blog.

Leave a comment

Design a site like this with WordPress.com
Get started